The Basque Country on foot, a look back at a chic and authentic getaway
Straddling France and Spain, the Basque Country enjoys an exceptional geographical location. Bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Pyrenees to the south, it offers a variety of landscapes that leave travelers with a feeling of authenticity and freedom. Exploring this region on foot allows you to take your time, whether along charming coastal paths or mountain trails. The Basque Country is also an outstanding gastronomic region, where specialties are savored slowly in a friendly and welcoming atmosphere. Over the past few decades, the number of great places to eat has multiplied, perfectly compensating for the miles covered, sometimes in very changeable weather! In this article, we will share our impressions of this beautiful Basque Country, which we explored on foot. Of course, if you are short on time, it is more convenient to reach the places mentioned by fast means of transport such as car or train. So here is an overview of the most beautiful places in the Basque Country where you can stretch your legs.
1. Bayonne and its historic center
We begin our journey in the lovely city of Bayonne. This human-sized town is ideal for warming up before setting out on more physical and demanding hikes. Bayonne is well suited to walking: it is crossed by pleasant, flower-filled, well-preserved canals. There are many pedestrian areas lined with local shops, restaurants, and brasseries. The city’s distinctive architecture gives it undeniable charm. The half-timbered houses are mostly white or beige, while the beams come in bright red, deep green, or dark brown. These colors contrast sharply but unmistakably recall the natural colors of the pine forests and ocher soil characteristic of the region.
Our Bayonne getaway takes us to discover the Vauban ramparts, Château-Vieux, Sainte-Marie Cathedral, the Cloister, and the magnificent Petit Bayonne district. Beyond the beauty of the historic monuments, which reflect the city’s religious and military past, we greatly appreciated its cultural and artistic dimension. The Basque Museum opened our eyes to Basque identity, which is sometimes misunderstood, and to the pastoral and agricultural traditions of the local people.
Let’s not forget the pleasure of good food: Bayonne is literally overflowing with excellent restaurants, inns, cafés, pastry shops, and specialty stores. Bayonne ham, sheep’s cheese, and cherry jam more than restored our energy for the rest of the journey!
2. The coastal trail from Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Hendaye
Leaving Bayonne, we follow the coast southward. We pass Bidart, where it is possible to begin this trail. Short on time, we continue on to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, the true starting point of our day’s hike. Before setting out on the trail, we take the time to visit this charming, traditionally Basque port. Smaller than Bayonne, Saint-Jean-de-Luz resembles a colorful fishing village where the white, red, and ocher of the half-timbered houses contrast beautifully with the blue of the sky and ocean, and the green of the surrounding forests. Admire the recently renovated 5-star Grand Hôtel, overlooking the main beach and offering exceptional amenities, if only to enjoy a coffee facing the sea.
After this rather chic introduction, it is time to get moving. Since the traditional coastal trail is closed for safety reasons, there is an equally beautiful and bucolic alternative. The path crosses the Nivelle and takes us past Maurice Ravel’s house. Then we head toward the higher ground. There, the landscape becomes more open and wild. We cross forests and fields, and the views over the Atlantic Ocean, the Basque coast, and the Pyrenean range are simply superb. Coves follow one another, giving hikers an irresistible urge to swim. Farther on, Abbadia Castle reveals its imposing architecture amid fields of heather and sarsaparilla. A few kilometers later, we arrive in Hendaye, which we take great pleasure in visiting. This coastal trail is not particularly difficult in itself, but it offers magnificent, typically Basque landscapes and connects two towns that are absolute must-sees.
3. The Jaizkibel ridges
After a restorative night in Hendaye, we continue exploring the Basque Country on foot. Today is devoted to the Jaizkibel ridges. To reach the starting point in Hondarribia, we have to cross the Spanish border. The hike is 21 kilometers long, with an elevation gain that is quite manageable for any experienced hiker. Don’t go in flip-flops, as the path is fairly steep in places. You should also plan ahead because the weather changes rather quickly in the Basque Country, and you certainly won’t regret bringing a waterproof jacket!
The path leading to the ridges follows the Way of Saint James. The first climb warms up the calves, but the spectacle at the top is truly worth the effort. We feel as though we are entering another world. The coast becomes rugged, and the cliffs increasingly steep. The rocks take on ocher, brown, and sometimes black hues. In rainy or gloomy weather, the landscape becomes dramatic, and you understand why so many poets and painters stopped here.
The view over Hendaye is magnificent, and this first “real” hike gave us a genuine taste of the Pyrenean adventures to come.
4. La Rhune
La Rhune is a legendary mountain massif that should not be missed under any circumstances if you are in the Basque Country. Its little red train, which saves many people the kilometers of climbing, is known throughout France. But we chose to reach the summit on foot. Starting from the Col de Saint-Ignace, there are numerous trails, more or less demanding, allowing experienced hikers and families alike to enjoy the absolutely magnificent landscapes of the massif. The mountains are fairly gentle, with their mossy pastures, even though you encounter rockier and more winding sections.
La Rhune offers a glimpse into the very heart of the region’s pastoral life. You come across many flocks of sheep, goats, and ewes, tended by shepherds who seem to have stepped out of another era. It is also not unusual to encounter herds of pottoks, those sturdy and calm ponies that give the landscapes an unmistakably wild dimension.
The summit reaches 905 meters, and the views over the ocean and the Pyrenees are once again remarkable.
To recover from all the excitement, treat yourself to a gastronomic stopover (or a night) at the contemporary Basque Inn run by Marion and Cédric Béchade. The chic atmosphere is perfect for a true return to one’s roots, and the divine meals showcase the local produce and Basque spirit beautifully.
5. Aïnhoa
Listed among the most beautiful villages in France, Aïnhoa is as pretty as its name is harmonious. The village seems to have come straight out of a postcard, with its bell tower overlooking entirely white half-timbered houses. The ocher roofs and red shutters give the whole village a uniform appearance that the town hall fiercely protects. And rightly so.
Although the village itself is well worth a visit, it is just as magnificent when viewed from the many vantage points on the surrounding hills. The best-known hike climbs to the Chapel of Notre-Dame-d’Aubépine. The route is fairly easy, and the ascent takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes. It passes through forests and meadows to the summit, where you come face-to-face with the charming chapel, along with three crosses and several discoid steles. The view from the chapel is divine: in good weather, you can see the ocean and the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
On the way back down to the village, stop at the charming Ithurria house, which serves dishes that are as beautiful as they are delicious. You can sample some of the finest Basque hams, as well as exceptionally delicious peppers in homemade vinegar. The house also sells local products directly, including black cherry jam that pairs wonderfully with Ossau-Iraty.
6. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
A little farther east, we arrive in the lovely village of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This medieval town was founded in the 12th century and has managed to preserve significant medieval remains. It is still possible to see timber-framed upper stories on some houses and gable walls on others. Numerous lintels bearing inscriptions dating back several centuries adorn certain walls. Finally, the Porte Saint-Jacques has the great honor of being part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of this helps create a rather distinctive and solemn atmosphere. Paradoxically, however, the village is very lively, and numerous events such as food fairs and markets are held regularly.
The hike we recommend starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and leads to the famous town of Roncesvalles in Spain. The route follows the Napoleon Route and takes hikers in the footsteps of Roland. It passes through dark, silent forests, as well as small streams that can be crossed on foot. Roland’s Fountain reminds us of the hero’s exploits in the Battle of Roncesvalles. The 25-kilometer path climbs steadily for a good twenty kilometers before descending toward Roncesvalles. Be careful: this is not a loop. You therefore need to plan how to return to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or stay there overnight. Bed-and-breakfasts and charming hotels are plentiful, as are restaurants and cafés.
7. Sainte-Engrâce
We end our stay in the Basque Country at the far eastern edge of the region, in the small village of Sainte-Engrâce. The village itself is nothing extraordinary apart from its church and stone bridge. But the surrounding area is home to superb hiking trails, deep caves, and canyons ideal for canyoning excursions. There are several routes depending on your level, and they are perfectly laid out, secured, and signposted. The trails feature footbridges, paths overlooking the river, and stairs carved into the rock. Needless to say, once again, suitable footwear is essential!
The Kakouetta Gorges will delight budding adventurers and seasoned ones alike. Nicknamed “Little Amazonia,” this site is surrounded by abundant, luxuriant vegetation. In good weather, the turquoise color of the water is an invitation to swim. But be sure not to dive into the water. The Gorges are protected and must remain so.
Conclusion
The Basque Country is an excellent destination for lovers of walking and hiking. The coastal trail provides a good warm-up before setting out to conquer the more mountainous paths of the Pyrenees. Along the trails we explored, we learned more about Basque identity, both authentic and proud. We have said little about the locals in this article, but everyone we met was delighted to share advice and anecdotes about their region. To relax after all these adventures, we had the pleasure of eating and sleeping in very well-kept, welcoming hotels, guesthouses, and vacation cottages. Basque cuisine is rich in flavor, redolent of the land and local produce, and needless to say, we returned with our arms laden with local specialties. It was almost as if we wanted to extend our stay in this unusual region of many facets.
